Name
Wave breaking in the surf zone: hydrodynamics from large-scale laboratory wave basin experiments and a phase-resolving numerical model
Date & Time
Wednesday, May 27, 2026, 5:15 PM - 5:30 PM
Description
Surf-zone hydrodynamic processes that vary over timescales shorter than a wave period have implications for the mobilization of sediments and determine how waves transform as they approach the shore. SWASH is a non-hydrostatic and phase-resolving model that allows for simulation of sub-wave-period processes, as opposed to spectrally averaged wave models. This study compares wave-ensemble-averaged hydrodynamics (e.g. water levels, velocities) between laboratory wave-basin experiments and SWASH numerical simulations. The laboratory experiments were conducted in the Queen’s Coastal Engineering Laboratory Wave Basin (20m x 26m) with monochromatic waves breaking on a 10:1 smooth concrete bed for a range of different incident wave angles, with observations collected using an array of sensors and cameras. The results highlight differences in how hydrodynamic quantities vary over the course of a wave cycle, namely the wave shape quantified by skewness and asymmetry, that influences shear stress at the bed.
Location Name
DSU 303
Full Address
Dalhousie University
Halifax NS
Canada
Session Type
Oral Presentation
Abstract ID
63
Speaker Organization
Queen's University
Session Name
H1
Co-authors
Ryan P. Mulligan (Queen's University), Alexandra Schueller (University of Applied Sciences Koblenz/WHOI), Nimish Pujara (University of British Columbia), Jack A. Puleo (Florida International University), Jason Olsthoorn (Queen's University)
Presenting Author
Thomas Pendergast (Queen's University)